Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc

Important note! : Regarding Mont Blanc Mountain;
 Transportation to the area,
Detailed information on the starting point of the climb of Chamonix Village,
Guide to Mont Blanc climbing,
-You can find it on the link in the Chamonix Township post.

-The first step in climbing Mont Blanc is reaching St Gervais with a 40 minutes train ride from Chamonix Town. The train price 4.5 euros. This journey can also be done by bus.

-From St Gervais, a 40 minutes ‘Tramway Du Mont Blanc’ takes you to Nid d’Aigle (2364 meters) with an hourly fantastic train ride. The return fare is 23.50 Euro.
The return ticket after 3 days must be taken from below. Nid d’Aigle (Eagle’s Nest) is the starting point for the Mont Blanc climb. It is also frequented by trekkers who want to visit the Auigille de Bionassay Glacier. From the Nid d’Aigle, you can reach the Tete Rousse Mountain House Camp at 3167 meters with a very easy and enjoyable 2 hour walk. In particular, the French mountaineers skip the Tete Rousse camp and go directly to the Gouter camp at 3817 meters per day. However, this is not recommended for those who can not adjust quickly to height.

-One of the most important rules in Mont Blanc and the French Alps is the prohibition of building tents in the mountains. The French have put them into practice to prevent pollution of these arid mountains. However, some mountaineers do not have the money to stay in their mountain houses, so they set up tents in the night and gather them early in the morning and continue on their way.
Of course, there is no mechanism in France to punish those who build tents. People are already sleeping with the rules. The Tete Rousse Mountain House is quite spacious and a place to meet all kinds of needs of mountaineers. In the mountain house there is a possibility to spend breakfast in the morning, dinner and night in the ward of 20 people. The price is 52 Euro.

-After resting in Tete Rousse, early in the morning, the 3817 meter Gouter chalet is moved. Under normal conditions, anyone who can climb 3+ rocks can easily cross the course. It is unthinkable that the route will be skipped. It is in winter conditions to climb without digging and cramp. One of the most risky places on the Route is the area where the big lane before the rock climbing course is cut off. The stones falling from the big flags cause several mountaineers to die each year. But the main problem is that the route starts with ice. In this condition the route becomes a complete mix climbing route (as in my climb). It is too risky to climb unsafe on some rock paths.

-The route is very crowded in the first half of July, August and September which is the climbing season. At times when I’m climbing. Who knows the weather and the evil of the ground did not climb the Gouter cliffs. There was a big round I and a Slovak climber Ivan. Under normal conditions this route is completed in 3 hours. However, the ice-holding route Ivan 3.5, I completed in 4 hours and helped the Gouter Mountain House.

-Gouter, the world’s most famous chalet built at 3817 meters. Usually it is very crowded and only 3 months in advance can be booked. When I arrived at the mountain house, there were 2 German couples, 3 Poles and 2 French climbers awaiting good weather.

-The charges here are the same as Tete Rousse. Breakfast in the morning, dinner and bed costs 52 Euro.Clup Alpin France‘ members are cutting this fee by half.

– Gouter mountain house phone: 0033 450 54 40 93 Oliver Curral

-After waking up at the Gouter camp and trying to sleep in the ward of 40 people and everyone snoring, we wake up at midnight and have breakfast. Usually the Mont Blanc peak climb starts at 3:00. Unfortunately, the bad weather, precipitation and type continued until 8:00 am. There was a heavy wind outside when the air opened. The French preferred to wait a day. The German climber returned. I, Slovak Ivan and 3 Polish climbers decided to try the summit even if it was late. It is imperative to wear crampons and dig in the way. The wind is too much and the ground is snowing hard.

-First arrives at the summit of the Dome du Gouter summit of 4200 meters. Then to the Vallot Shelter (4362 meters) and then a few hills over the 4807-meter Mont Blanc peak. A summit on the road is the Dome du Gouter. Height is 4304 meters. Peak climb varies from 4 to 6 hours, depending on performance.

-However, after peak climbing, it can be quite tiring to go down the Gouter-Tete Rousse route with exhaustion.

Danger of Mont Blanc 

-In the mountains where mountaineers generally prefer the Gouter route, the deaths that happen every year are very serious.

-In some periods, the Gouter route climb has reached the limit of prohibition. The extreme heat in France causes the glaciers to fall and sudden changes in temperature cause the resulting rocks to explode into climbing tracks and lose many mountaineers’ lives.

-That’s why there’s a sign on Nid d’Aigle that tells about the danger of the route. Unlike last year this year, the whole of August was almost rainy. The fact that the roads are covered with snow and ice necessitates a dig-boom climb. Climbing mountain climbers who are unprepared in the mountain is a serious danger. Another glacier in Mont Blanc is glacial cracks. The cracks that can be seen clearly when the tops are open are covered and disappear with snowfall. This is a big trap for mountaineers. Especially the number of mountaineers who fell to the cracks in the Aiguille du Midi’s road is more. It is very dangerous for mountain climbers who do not know the route to continue climbing in these situations.

Mont Blanc Mountain Rescue Unit Phone: 0033 450 53 16 89

Mont Blanc History

– In the 1700s, when scientific thinking began to develop, programmed and technical climbs began to be made in the mountains.
First, in 1786, the exploration of the atmospheric events of the Geneva naturalist Saussure‘s highs turned into the first research climb. The chosen mountain was Mont Blanc, the highest mountain of the European Alps. Saussure can not dare to climb to a height of 4807 meters, which no man has ever climbed before, and two mountaineers named J. Balmat and M. Paccard are assigned to summit the summit. The team, which is highly equipped according to the conditions at that time, concludes with great success this first climb which started in Chamonix Town. The highest peak of the Alps is conquered Mont Blanc.

-Saussure is one year after this first climb, Mont Blanc dares to climb his own and summit and succeed. As far as climbing is concerned, atmospheric pressure researches conclude with success.
-With the courage of this climb, all the peaks in the Alpine mountains were climbed until 1850, except for the walls of just a few peaks.

                                                                                                         (Map of Mont Blanc)

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